The real genius of this garment, however, is the way the muted dark blue tropical-weight virgin wool (milled in Italy with just a hint of stretch) perfectly tempers the boldness of the wider, double-breasted silhouette. If you’re interested in dabbling in the world of double-breasted power suits without going full American Gigolo, this is a great place to start.
Best Upgrade Navy Blue Suit: Sid Mashburn Kincaid No. 3 Suit
When you think “classic navy suit,” this two-piece number from Atlanta’s favorite tailor is probably what you’re picturing. The Kincaid No. 3 is Mashburn’s Goldilocks suit, with a just-right blend of high-quality construction, a slim-but-not-skinny silhouette, and versatile notch lapels. Mashburn’s suiting is priced in the middle of the ready-to-wear scale, but details like the English-made high-twist wool fabric (which, aside from looking sharp, is naturally wrinkle-resistant), surgeon’s cuffs, and a three-layer canvassed jacket that will adapt to the shape of your body over time are proof that you’re getting your money’s worth.
Best Navy Blue Suit for Tailoring Nerds: Saman Amel Wool Suit
Some suits lean more old-school, some lean more avant-garde, and some mask delightfully avant-garde details in old-school form. Stockholm’s Saman Amel sets this three-roll-two firmly in the latter category, with its combination of wide, notch lapels and a slightly shrunken fit. Despite its right-now energy, details like welted pockets and a deadly serious navy-on-navy Italian wool twill fabric give it plenty of staying power.
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Another Great Budget Option: Knickerbocker Cotton-Twill Suit
Appropriately from a brand rooted in skate culture, Knickerbocker’s suiting is designed to be as easy-wearing as a chore coat and a pair of wide-leg Dickies. Made from a sturdy cotton twill and generously cut to accommodate layers (like, say, one of Knickerbocker’s covetable rugby sweaters), this holds down the casual end of the navy suit spectrum with finesse.
Another Great Double-Breasted Option: Anglo-Italian Wool-Linen Suit
Anglo-Italian is a brand for suiting purists. No fashion, no gimmicks, no markdowns, just great suits in classic fits made with top-quality workmanship. Crafted from a Tuscan herringbone wool-linen fabric that’s been gently tumbled for a soft finish, this navy joint boasts high-end details like hand-stitched lapels and buttonholes that offer a taste of the bespoke life for a (relatively) reasonable off-the-rack price.
Another Great Option for Spring Weddings: Mr P. Slim-Fit Linen Suit
Great inventions have a way of standing the test of time, and linen is right there alongside Silly Putty and the wheel. For the last 10,000 years, give or take, humans have been turning linen cloth into all kinds of things, including suits, and it’s a club you’d be well-served to join. Consider this crisp summerweight number as your initiation. As ever, Mr. Porter’s house brand provides maximum bang for your buck, and the fabric’s dark blue hue does wonders to minimize linen’s signature wrinkles.
Another Great Upgrade Option: Drake’s Cotton-Corduroy Suit
The amazing thing about corduroy isn’t just that it’ll instantly make you look at least 60% more professorial, it’s the fact that you can wear it all year round. The fabric’s famously fuzzy ribbed texture is a natural fit for autumn and winter (especially in shades of brown and green) but like all cotton fabrics, it’s remarkably breathable in summer, too. That makes this navy corduroy suit a decidedly bolder option than your standard wool number for summer weddings and other dressy events, as well as a reliable year-rounder.
Another Great Option for Tailoring Nerds: Stòffa Tropical Wool Suit
The best suits are the ones you’re inclined to get the most use out of, and everything about this single-button jacket and pleated trousers makes them worthy of heavy rotation in your wardrobe, both individually and together. Made at Stòffa’s workshop in Southern Italy, the jacket’s shirt-style construction, boxy fit, and lightweight tropical wool fabric help it look just as good with jeans and loafers as it does in full suit mode.
Another Great Slim-But-Not-Skinny Option: Dries Van Noten Wool Suit
The problem with the slim-fitting suits of the 2010s wasn’t their body-hugging cut, it was so many brands’ insistence that anyone can and should wear them. Simply put, slim-fit suits generally look best on tall, slim bodies, and have the tendency to make everyone else look lumpy and uncomfortable. If you’re a member of the former category, Dries Van Noten has your number right here.
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